1.) The thickness of the SIP wall is a critical factor in determining your layout geometry. Most SIP manufacturers provide panels in both 2x4 and 2x6 varieties, however, bear in mind that those sizes predicate that the 2x4 or 2x6 is sandwiched between the panels. Therefore, your wall thickness to rough structural frame will be 4-1/2" and 6-1/2" respectively. Including the OSB skin is very important to the structure.

2.) The entire sip wall must be supported by the structure below. In frame construction, you typically run the studs to the outside face of the floor deck or foundation, then sheath beyond that. In SIP design, the OSB skin bust be supported and therefore will cause the layout to be shifted by about 1/2".

3.) SIPs panels must never be in direct contact with concrete. No untreated wood should ever come into direct contact with concrete because the caustic nature of the materials in concrete will cause rapid and premature decay in the wood fibers. SIPs panels are no different. In special circumstances, you can have a SIPs panel manufactured with treated skin.

4.) Do not add additional plates above the panel that are less than the full panel width of the SIP wall itself. This is tied to the structural implications in item 1 above, but the entire SIP wall (skin-to-skin) is the structural member, and therefore should be loaded continuously across the full thickness of the panel.

5.) Don't design unsupported horizontal joints in the wall. This is also true with stud framing. You should not introduce hinge points within walls of any height. Instead, in stud framing, you would balloon frame the wall, or in SIPs detailing, you would run the SIP wall full height. Special care must be taken because there are practical limits to the sizes of SIPs panels. The manufacturer should make special recommendations for cases where the walls in the design exceed these limits.

6.) Plan for only continuous 2x's or i-beams for SIP spline connections. Using spliced lumber for these splines will significantly reduce the structural integrity of the wall system.

7.) Provide access holes in the sill plate to allow for electrical wire chase access. Often forgotten, these access points are critical for your electrician. The SIP wall design specific you your building will have more information about the sizes and locations of wiring chases and a little preplanning goes a long way down the road. As a result, it is always a good idea to develop the electrical plans before the SIP wall manufacturing.

8.) Avoid plumbing runs in the SIP wall. This means supply lines, vent stacks etc.. There are special details for these conditions that allow this to happen without impacting the thermal or structural performance, and they must be addressed on a case-by-case basis. Again, planning in the design phase helps to circumvent potential conflicts during construction.

9.) Never overcut the skins for field cut openings and don't cut the skins for electrical chases. These cuts impact the structural ability of the wall to carry the design loads. Wherever possible, have all openings and chases provided in the SIP core by the factory.

10.) Handle SIPs with care!! Protect them on the jobsite from the weather. Provide adequate supprt when storing them flat to avoid deflection. Never lift them by the top skin only. Don't drop them on their corners as they will easily damage.

SIPs offer a great option for many building types and the more you know about how to design with them as well as what to look out for during construction will help to make the design and construction process much more seamless (not to mention painless).

I've also written a post comparing and contrasting Insulated Concrete Forms vs SIPs.

Originally posted 2008-12-15 10:35:09.

Related posts:

1. ICF vs. SIP…The Debate Continues

The idea of self-repairing architecture can be staggering. I have contemplated exterior sidings that might live and repair themselves similar to the bark of a tree. In fact, I wouldn't mind at all if it even looked like the bark on a tree. With advancements in fields originally thought to be wholly unrelated to architecture, like microbiology and electrochemistry, we may be able to collaborate on our collective ideas to develop a new architecture that relates and interacts with our natural environment in a natural way. In my own contemplations, perhaps there may be some way to graft living bark onto a substrate that could be joined in a system to create such a living wall. Maybe this is something that can be done on site to existing buildings. It would give rise to a tree house with a whole new meaning.

Consider the myriad of other possibilities that might implement living organisms to create a living structure - much in the same way that thousands of species use coral as their home. Instead of growing foliage outside of the exterior skin of a structure, let it be the skin of the structure, or perhaps even the structure itself. Can rigid structures like coral be easily grown on the terrestrial surface?  This kind of thinking may give rise to a new and truly organic kind of design. How it would be viewed under our current building code is an entirely different question!

I will be posting more on this topic as I continue my own research, but I encourage a discussion on it to share ideas.

Originally posted 2009-11-10 02:00:30.

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1. Define Green Architecture? What Makes a Building Sustainable and Green?
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3. EVstudio is Upgrading to AutoCAD Architecture 2009 and Revit Architecture 2009 – Why Support Both?

Spray Foam Installation

Advances in spray foam technology is making closed cell foam more affordable for projects of all kinds, and the advantages over traditional batt and cellulose insulation methods are staggering.

Insulation Comparison Chart

As you can see from the above comparison chart, not only does closed cell spray foam significantly outperform other methods in R-value, but it also contributes substantially to moisture control, reductions in air infiltration and even structural frame rigidity. Not shown in the chart are also the superior acoustic advantages to closed cell foam in the walls.

Typical solid foam installation assemblies are below:

• Walls: 2×6 with 3″ of Closed Cell Foam = Approx. R21
• Walls: 2×6 with 5-1/2″ of Closed Cell Foam = Approx. R38.5
• Walls: 2×4 with 3″ of Closed Cell Foam = Efficiency Equiv. R21
• Walls: 2×4 with 3-1/2″ of Closed Cell Foam = Approx. R24
• Ceilings: 7″ Closed Cell Foam = Approx. R47.5
• Ceilings: 10″ Closed Cell Foam = Approx. R68

All of this performance does come at a premium, however, and one way to cut down on installation costs, while also maintaining a sound thermal envelope is the "Flash and Batt" method. This method combines the advantages of closed cell foam with a thinner layer, and making up the balance in the wall or ceiling with traditional, lower cost batt insulation.

Typical "Flash and Batt" assemblies are as follows:

• Walls: 2×6 with 1″ of Closed Cell Foam and R15 Batt = Approx. R22
• Walls: 2×6 with 2″ of Closed Cell Foam and R15 Batt = Approx. R28.5
• Ceilings: 1″ Closed Cell Foam and R30 Batt (for cathedral roofs)= Approx. R37
• Ceilings: 1″ Closed Cell Foam and R38 Batt (N/A cathedral roofs)= Approx. R45
• Ceilings: 2″ Closed Cell Foam and R38 Batt (N/A cathedral roofs)= Approx. R51.5
• Ceilings: 3″ Closed Cell Foam and R38 Batt (N/A cathedral roofs)= Approx. R58.5

Originally posted 2011-01-01 00:01:37.

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Our findings so far:

In order to get the full points for LEED credit, we need to either have a mass wall (ICF) with an actual (not performance) R-value of at least R-14. This is easily done with just about any thickness of ICF wall because the foam insulation is where the value is really calculated. You get actual R-17 to R-22 depending on the ICF block – “equivalent” r-values are touted in the 40’s and 50’s, but that includes the thermal mass equivalency and is really an apples-to-bananas comparison anyway, so don't believe everything you hear.

For SIPs, we wouldn’t consider that a mass wall, so the actual R-value needs to be a minimum of R-21. Again, easy to do in a 6-1/2” SIP panel (which would be R-42 – way over everything else by comparison). If we have poured concrete floors inside the building, then we have plenty of thermal mass inside the home (where we really want it), and not separated by a layer of insulation (which is one of the complaints with ICF).

Both systems are thermally broken systems as far as LEED is concerned. Both systems will be very high performance for airtightness (and will require an HRV). It appears that only SIPs will allow us additional LEED points for pre-built panel assemblies since ICFs are site-built assemblies that are then poured on site. We're still researching that with LEED though, so I will validate that and amend this post when we have more data on that.

Space is also a fairly large consideration as well. LEED calculates the area from the outside face of the rough assembly, so the additional thickness required by ICFs will add approximately 120-150 sq.ft. of wall thickness for a 2,000 sq.ft. footprint. I know that sounds crazy, but there is quite a bit of square footage tied up in our exterior walls that isn’t useable, and the thicker the walls, the more that hurts our ability to keep the space functional and stay within the LEED guidelines that won’t require us to add additional points to our requirements total. So, to maximize LEED points, it's not enough for a wall to perform thermally, it also needs to do it with minimum wall thickness - now we really are talking the 21st century modern home here!

Chances are, any sustainably built low-rise Type V building project will have both ICF and SIP components, it really is a question of “how much ICF and how much SIP”. Right now, unless there is some major economic advantage in the initial cost for using ICFs, the information I have is telling me to build the foundation with ICF and use ICF for walkout basement conditions if site topography warrants it. Then run the SIPs from the main level floor up.

This will also allow you to handle common details more easily. For example, you can set the foundation wall to the inside face of the sip so that it can act as a ledge for stone or brick veneer while preserving the thermal break. It’s also worth noting that angles other than 90 degrees at the building corners are easily done with SIPs and won’t pose any problems with designs that are customized. In fact, just about any shape is possible with SIPs – even curved forms. You can do those angles with ICF as well, but it isn’t a lot of fun, so you want to minimize those kinds of design features wherever possible.

It's also worth noting that there are a lot of good reasons to plan for SIP walls running through the building, separating key areas as they provide great thermal separation and sound attenuation in the same space as a conventional stud wall.

We actually started this project thinking that we would need to go to ICFs in order to maximize our LEED point potential, however, it turns out that SIPs actually have a slight advantage when it comes to LEED because of their reduced thickness. For all intensive purposes, they will perform equally in a LEED thermal analysis though, so unless you can build an ICF wall for less than a SIP wall, the SIP wall would be the best choice.

If you are looking to have a highly sustainable building designed, this information is only one very small part of the comprehensive analysis for the great number and variety of design decisions, and all of these choices must be tailored to your specific situation, location and site adaptation. With that said, we strongly urge you to engage the services of a design professional that has the knowledge and experience so that the financial investment in your building is validated and actually performs. In fact, in order to get LEED certification, you are required to assemble a design team that has those qualifications. Contact EVstudio if you have any questions or need to discuss your next sustainable project.

For more SIP info read my post Top 10 Important Things to Know About SIPs

Originally posted 2008-10-31 10:03:14.

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1. More Information on Evergreen Terraces
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For example, the cost of a 3 kilowatt photovoltaic solar panel system might be about $20,000 to install before rebates and tax incentives. The resulting monthly payment as the cost of this system is rolled into the financing of your home (at 6.5% over a 30 year term) is $126.42 per month. If the system is intended to offset the full value of the electricity at today's energy prices, then the decision may be easy to make.

Mortgage Calculator Results $20,000

Now take into account about $10,000 worth of rebates and tax incentives available in our Denver market. Please note here that these vary state to state and are always changing, so be sure to consult a resource for the latest rules and regulations on tax credit and energy rebate policy to know what will apply to your project. Another calculation quickly determines that the monthly payment with the same terms would only be $63.21

Mortgage Calculator Results $10,000

At this point, it is easy to determine that the monthly costs for energy would equal or exceed this additional amount to the monthly payment, so the decision to include it into the design is easy to make. Especially when you consider the climbing costs of energy in the future while the mortgage payment will remain the same. I keep a full host of useful mortgage calculators handy on my favorites list for this very purpose. Those linked in this post are courtesy of www.CompareInterestRates.com.

Originally posted 2011-01-26 00:01:32.

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1. LEED Project Team Formation is an Important First Step in any LEED Certification Project
2. Construction Costs Back On The Rise
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Clean Energy Authority

This is not a governmental organization in any way, but rather, a business that is built around core values of being experts in their industry, and providing valuable information and news about their industry. They have pre-screened suppliers and installers that they can direct you to and the best part is that this information is free.

When you are looking for information on the latest tax incentives or rebate programs in your area, or are trying to find a reputable installer that won't skip town as soon as they receive payment, you can find helpful resources here.

As always, on new construction, the integration of PV and solar hydronic systems are a part of a larger sustainable program that your team of architects and engineers need to be a part of. But be aware that on all projects, new and old, you will need a structural assessment of your building's roof if you plan to install any of these systems on it. EVstudio regularly handles such issues and we can help you with integrating solar panels in a smart and aesthetically pleasing architectural solution, while ensuring that all of the structural requirements are also met.

Originally posted 2011-01-25 00:01:25.

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1. Basics of Radiant Heating and Cooling with Hydronic Systems
2. Great incentives for photovoltaic solar panels in Colorado
3. Free New Online LEED Resource Helps Even Seasoned Professionals – LEEDuser.com

Not only are there some great new technologies available for insulation, but this is one area where you probably get the most bang for your buck when it comes to thermal performance. This is primarily because, it's all relatively cheap (note: relatively is a relative term). And remember that a good thermal envelope with a sound insulation package helps save energy in both heating and cooling seasons. Below is a synapsis of some conventional methods and what to expect with each...

Fiberglass ($) - Everyone remembers the Pink Panther peddling this soft pink stuff by the roll - just remember not to let it touch your skin or you will itch into next week. The cotton-candy like fibers are actually tiny fibers of glass (thus fiberglass) and they insulate by trapping the air in the wall. You can get up to about R-3.5 per inch of this material (and up to R-5 with high density batts), which isn't too bad. The only problem is that fiberglass doesn't close all the gaps and there are a lot of areas that become weak in your thermal envelope (electrical receptacles, doors and windows, etc.). If these areas are not carefully installed, you will have problems. Also, if the material gets wet, all bets are off. Compressed or wet fiberglass is considered essentially useless as an insulation and would need to be replaced.

Cellulose ($) - In some markets, Cellulose is actually cheaper than fiberglass. This material is basically like lint made up of shredded material - everything from newspaper to denim. It is also treated with insecticide and fireproofing. They blow this into the stud cavities or attic spaces and because the material has no internal threading like fiberglass, you can fill every nook and cranny with it. Because the insulation method is also by trapping air, the r-value per inch is very similar to fiberglass. The installation is much better though and performance improves considerably. There has been some concern about cellulose settling over time, leaving gaps, but with a wet installation that includes a binder (a glue of sorts), these issues have largely been addressed.

Rigid insulation ($$) - These are the stiff ultra-light styrofoam panels that you have seen occassionally blowing around jobsites. There are a lot of different types of materials that comprise the family of rigid insulations, and may warrant their own blog. For the purpose of this post, you can get r-4 per inch using EPS or Phenolic panels and up to R-7.5 for the Polyurethane rigid panels. The materials in these panels are reasonably inexpensive, but the labor to install becomes very difficult to justify for cavity wall or roof insulation. More often than not, these materials are used in EIFS stucco systems, or really any siding system where the insulation can be installed continuously outside the structure without interruption, and also in roof deck applications where the entire roof is clad in the continuous rigid panel above the structural deck. There are other construction methods which are taking advantage of the high r-value of rigid insulation: SIPs construction where the panels run continuous, sandwiched between OSB panels and ICF form construction, which utilizes these materials for foundation construction with excellent results. Point being, for cavity insulation, the r-value is high, but so is the labor cost and you still have the same gap problems you get with fiberglass.

Spray-in foam ($$$) - This method, while the most expensive, is by far the tightest solution for a cavity wall construction. The material is Polyisocyanurate and can have an R-value averaging about 7 per inch. They spray it into the cavities and it expands to seal every nook and cranny. It hardens into a plastic material that is not only stable (important if you want your building to perform 20 years from now as well as it does today), but is also essentially inert and won't react with other building materials. Like other rigid solutions, It can get wet and it won't lose r-value. Installation typically requires a trained crew, but once installed, the building will perform similar to a SIPs built home. We are hoping that over time, this installation becomes more commonplace so that prices can even out.

Analysis: How should you sort out this information and decide on the best choice for your project? Often, thickness of wall or roof system and desired net R-value dictate this. Or perhaps your construction method may decide for you (SIPs, ICF, EIFS, etc..). Regardless, you can expect to pay on average between $.80 and $.90 a square foot for R-19 insulation using Fiberglass or Cellulose, installed with the Rigid being more, depending on application and spray-in being double and sometimes triple that depending on availability of installers. With that being said, you may be paying about $5,000 for fiberglass or cellulose for a modest 2,500 sq.ft. home and another $5,000 or more for spray-in foam. If your construction budget is particularly price sensitive, cellulose may be your best choice here. If, however, your initial cost is less important than your life-cycle cost and how well your building performs over time (and how it uses energy to heat and cool), then the spray-in technique may be better suited to your project. We cover these issues from the programming phase in the design process all the way through development of the Construction Documents and can help advise you on the best choice for your project. This way, you have all of the information you need to make the right decision to... insulate your investment.

Originally posted 2008-08-04 14:56:29.

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1.) Aren't Architects eccentric and unapproachable?

While Hollywood movies often like to depict Architects as elitist, eccentric and generally too good to talk to you (watch or read "The Fountainhead" some time), this is simply not the case. We are ordinary people who just happen to have creative and scientific minds. We have families and hobbies outside of our work. Some communicate better than others, but rest assured that working with an architect should not be an intimidating experience.

2.) All Architects are the same and will do the same job.

Well, that's just crazy talk. Consider the countless variables that go into any design task. Every architect will bring a unique combination of experience, creativity, science and discovery to every project. Sure, we're trained in the basics and we all know what the golden ratio is all about, but what sets us all apart is our individual ideas and how we implement them. It's also worth noting that every firm has a different workflow process and crafts a set of plans differently, including more of some kinds of details while eliminating others. Be sure to look at a sample set of drawings from whomever you are speaking with.

3.) I can't afford an Architect.

This one is probably the largest and most misunderstood myth. Design is the one task on every project that stands to carry the most value for the entire project. The design can make or break the realization of the project. Also, when you consider that the origination of just about every structure in the world is the direct result of an architect, planner or designer in some form or another, you realize that good planning and design is as important, and as integrated in the overall cost of a project as any other line item. Tract housing is designed by architects. Affordable housing is designed by Architects. Even mobile homes require talented designers! If the total project budget is appropriately crafted, then there should be a line item for architecture. Also consider that often, an architect's fees may be similar to a realtor's fees to market and sell a property, and then things really fall into perspective. To put it simply: you get what you pay for!

4.) Aren't Architects the ones who draw the pretty pictures? But can it really be built?

This may personally be the most frustrating myth for me, but that is because I also have an engineering background. This myth is likely perpetuated by a number of folks who perhaps once studied architecture, practiced architecture, but have transitioned into more of an "idea architect" where they come up with an inspired image, then let the others figure out how to build it. However, a qualified full service architect will understand structure and geometry alike. Architects are trained and tested on structure and while not all firms practice engineering in house, they are adequately experienced to design buildable designs. Both sides are important, you do need the inspired idea, but also the logistics to support it.

5.) I don't want a big expensive home, so I don't need an Architect.

A huge misconception about architecture is that it is only for the rich. As I mentioned in #3 above, every building needs a designer. While it is true that some firms will specifically market certain types and sizes of projects, the bottom line is that more often than not, the smaller homes have been architect-designed as well. It certainly is worth noting that the smaller the project, the more challenging it can be to design, and therefore, we often find that there is an inverse proportion to size of project and the need for a qualified architect.

6.) I'm worried that if I hire an architect, I'll be forced into having to go with their style.

There are plenty of designers out there that have branded themselves as being experts on a particular style of design, be it the prairie style of Frank Lloyd Wright, the Arts and Crafts style of Greene and Greene, or the International style of Le Corbusier. However, this tends to be more a personal preference from architect to architect but we are all trained in good design regardless of style. A good client-centered design firm should listen to the client's needs and craft a design that speaks to the client's desires, in a style that suits the client. But be watchful for the firms that do not put the client's needs first - for a lot of reasons!

7.) I don't have time to work with an Architect - I need to get building right away.

People like to romanticize about Architects pondering the quality of space for years before construction can begin, but this is not how we work. We are driven by the very same economics that drives developers: time is money. The fastest way to get through accurate bidding, permitting and into the ground is by going through an architect hands down. Architects are trained to expedite projects whether it's a home or a hospital. Often times, projects are even  run design-build so a lot of design actually happens concurrent with construction and is the fastest delivery model available. And if you think cutting the design out of the schedule is a good way to save time, you'll have a sobering experience waiting for a building permit, not to mention the delays and change orders that come with an ad-hock plan (or worse yet, a plan that was designed for a different site and a different program).

8.) Architects must only specialize in residential or commercial design.

This one always comes up at parties. I tell people what I do for a living and 9 times out of 10, the very next question is "residential or commercial"? Now, it is true that design firms will try to go after specific project types as a part of their core business model, but to an individual architect, designing any building type is a comprehensive process that we are all trained to do. I simply tell people that I design buildings (and often times other things like furniture as well). It's not really about size of project either because some single family homes are larger than other commercial offices. And there are plenty of "residential" projects that are very commercial in nature - mixed use projects, live-work lofts, high rise condos and apartments. Even condotels and dormatory style housing. One thing is for certain, the ability to leverage what we know from one project type to another is priceless, to the more varied the projects an architect has the opportunity to work on, the more creative and innovative they wind up being.

9.) Doesn't the architect need to be located near me or the project site?

I'm a big advocate of seeing the project site before starting design, but the truth is, that with today's technology allowing us to model that site topography in 3-D complete with a solar study based on the location coordinates, and see the property virtually via digital photos and movies that can be e-mailed, and satellite images readily available in Google, it's not really a necessity as it once was. We have designed projects in remote places for clients that are even farther away. The tools and technology we use have allowed design collaboration in ways never before imagined. I regularly design buildings for out of state clients on sites that are in yet another state, and coordinating with a materials supplier that is out of the country. That is how easy it has become.

10.) The design process sounds daunting and painful.

Well, of all the steps that one will take to build a home, office or highrise, I think most who have done it would agree that the design phase is the most fun step of them all. It is the time to dream, explore and discover. There is a lot of learning that goes on, but at the same time, it is open ended and fluid. We look at the design process as having part entertainment value to the client. It should be fun and we go out of our way to make it so.

Originally posted 2009-05-21 15:25:46.

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Understanding Net Zero involves a number of key points. The first is a focus on reducing the energy demands of the building. This is achieved by both a shift in culture and how we're used to living/working as well as advanced technologies for reaping the highest efficiencies out of every aspect of the building. After this disciplined reduction in demand, the remaining energy use must be provided with renewable energy. Additional technologies are utilized to provide this power, such as Photovoltaics (PV) or Wind Power and the building must be rigorously modeled in order to demonstrate that all of its energy needs are provided for by its own energy production.

Below is a breakdown of the energy use in a typical Office Building in the United States. As you can see, reducing the loads is the first step in a Net Zero design strategy, and is the primary focus of this article.

Typical Energy Consumption In US Office Building - Courtesy of US Energy Information Administration

Below is our top ten list of effective ways to reduce energy demand in an effort to approach Net Zero:

10.) High efficiency HVAC systems. This seems obvious, but you would be amazed at the spectrum of systems available on the market today. A net zero building relies on the best of the best of these systems. Heat Recovery Ventilators should provide fresh air ventilation without releasing valuable heat to the exterior of the building. Sophisticated control systems are also necessary to manage the building HVAC system to respond to the changing needs of the building and the occupant load.

9.) Daylighting. The development of large commercial buildings often leads to vast amounts of enclosed space with no access to natural daylight. Artificial lighting creates a huge burden on the energy demand and must be balanced with as much natural daylighting as possible. This is especially relevant for buildings that operate primarily during daytime hours

8.) Artificial Lighting and Controls   High efficiency artificial lighting sources are a crucial supplement to daylighting. While daylighting should be a primary light source (with appropriate shielding and redirection), artificial lighting must be carefully considered for night time use, in interior spaces, and to supplement daylighting.  High efficiency fluorescent and LED sources can be combined with judicious use of ceramic metal halide and halogen sources.  It's important to work with the Client to adjust expectations for artificial light levels in Net Zero energy buildings.  Certain older recommendations for foot candle levels from artificial light are very difficult to attain in Net Zero buildings.  Supplementing overhead or ambient light levels with individually controlled task lighting is a way to keep light where it's needed and minimize energy use.  Just as important as efficient sources are controls that manage use of artificial light loads. At a minimum, commercial buildings striving for Net Zero energy must utilize daylight sensors to tune artificial light levels based on presence of daylight; and occupancy sensors to turn off lights when spaces are not used. Other controls that should be seriously considered include a building energy management system; and plug load occupancy sensors for non-critical plug loads.

7.) Passive Solar heating/cooling. Depending on the site location and orientation, all measures must be made to draw available solar heat into the building in Winter months while shading during Summer months in colder or temperate climates. In hot or humid climates, shading and protection from inviting unwanted heat into the building is critical to reducing cooling demand. Window specifications are critical to the success of a passive solar design, and these specifications are different for differing exposures within the same building.

6.) Sustainable Trees. The landscape design for a Net Zero building is critical in managing the microclimate around the building. Landscaping can provide shade trees to protect the building from unnecessary heat gain. Trees can also control unwanted winds that could create unnecessary heating demand in colder temperatures.The landscape design should also require the minimum amount of energy to maintain and operate.

5.) Rooftop gardens and living wall systems. Also a huge buffer to managing the building's thermal envelope are rooftop gardens and living wall systems. These are natural solar devices which convert much of the sun's energy to plant life rather than introducing it into the building. Careful integration of these systems into the design is key to managing building temperatures, but they should not add to the loads of the building in order to maintain.

4.) Thermal Storage. In climates that endure temperature swings, there is an opportunity to retain and store heat provided for during the day that can be released at night. Methods include thermal mass walls and newer technologies include phase change materials that are capable of storing significant amounts of heat energy at near-room temperatures. Other methods of thermal storage can provide heat for domestic hot water within the building, and should be considered in the design.

3.) Natural Ventilation. We have all been in buildings that are sealed with no ability to open the windows. While this was the historic solution to balancing and controlling HVAC systems in buildings, it eliminates the ability to heat and cool interior spaces naturally  and with the informed decisions of the occupants in a temperate climate zone. Including natural ventilation into a larger building is arguably more complicated for the mechanical engineer, but the results are less energy demand and greater occupant comfort if done correctly.

2.) Superperforming thermal envelope. The old mantra of R-value is not the only test anymore of assembly performance. Every mode of heat transfer must be addressed in every wall, roof, floor, window, door, duct, shaft and penetration. Controlling conductive, convective and emissive heat transfer is critical to controlling heating and cooling loads in a building. New systems involving spray foams and low-e materials are necessary in any Net Zero building.

1.) Adjustments in culture and expected use. No one is asking to return to the turn of the last century and compromise internal occupant comfort, but there are some things we've gotten used to that are really unnecessary energy consuming items.  Is it necessary to keep lights on in unused spaces during business hours and does the HVAC system need to run 24/7 in every space? Appliances should be assessed for their necessity and reduced to meet the real need of the building functions. Necessary appliances should be high efficiency, reducing energy consumption. Some things that we've gotten used to are not only unnecessary, but also can contribute to occupant discomfort. A net zero building relies on a culture shift of its occupants to be mindful of the energy use that is being consumed. Employee training programs and proper operating and maintenance procedures for all users of the building are critical. This is hands down the best way to address plug loads, which are the most difficult to quantify and model in any Net Zero design.

Not all building types have the same energy needs. It is important in every project to assess the specific needs for the building type and its occupants. Below is a chart representing the electricity consumption of various building types. The reduction methods outlined above are relevant to all of these building types, but would be tailored to specifically meet Net Zero design goals for each project type. Note that this chart is for electricity only, and does not represent total energy use.

Electricity Consumption per Square Foot by Building Type - Courtesy of US Energy Information Administration

EVstudio is involved with a wide array of sustainable buildings that we have designed. There are many methods for gauging the sustainability of a building. The most popular these days is through the USGBC LEED program. However, one can design and build a Net Zero Building without ever going through the LEED process. For more information or to discuss how your project could be Net Zero or LEED certified, please contact us by commenting on this post below, or through the contact information on our website and we would be happy to discuss.

Originally posted 2011-09-07 12:36:57.

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Autodesk Freewheel will allow you to open and view .DWF files in your web browser. You will not have the ability to mark up or measure the drawings as you would have in the full version of the free download for .DWF, but it's great for on the go viewing from anywhere there is a browser. You will, of course need to have your .DWF files with you or saved to a location on the internet.

Simply Click on this link: Autodesk Freewheel, and the viewer will load in your browser with a sample .DWF file opened. Go to the upper left hand file and select the file icon. Then, simply browse your computer for the file or type in the URL address for the file if it is online and hit submit. The zoom and pan controls are fairly intuitive, so play around and have fun. For 3-D .DWF files, the orbit control takes a bit of getting used to, but the visual clarity of this web viewer is identical to the full software version.

If you have been sent a link directly to the viewer with the file to be viewed, then you don't need to do anything but click on that link, and it will bring you directly into the viewer with your project already loaded and ready to navigate. A brief explanation of the viewer tools is below (click on the image for a larger view of the text):

Originally posted 2009-08-14 00:50:23.

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