Tired of all the holdown straps?

You can eliminate many of the metal holdown straps from the upper floor wall to the main floor wall by modifying your OSB wall sheathing layout.  When the OSB wall sheathing is continuous over the floor framing section or lapped with the rim board uplift loads can be transferred.

If you are utilizing prefabricated wall panels you can still have the OSB extend to the middle of the rim board.  Just have the OSB extend below/above the plates as build in the shop.  The only caution is, extra care is needed to prevent the overhanging OSB sheathing from being damaged during shipping.

This concept can also be utilized at the foundation sill plate to help reduce uplift loads that would otherwise require embedded straps such as STHD10RJs.  In that situation, cross grain bending is not desired on the sill plate as the load transfers to the anchor bolts.  The cross grain bending can be removed from the equation using mud sill anchors (MAS) attached to the exterior face of the OSB sheathing in lieu of anchor bolts.  A great solution when utilizing prefabricated walls.

Typically, when building with wood you want many smaller fasteners that distribute the load out evenly rather than a few large fasteners concentrating the load.

EVstudio | Architecture and Engineering | Denver and Evergreen

Originally posted 2009-07-31 00:01:56.

Related posts:

1. Staples or Nails? Choosing the Right Fastener for Wall and Roof Sheathing
2. Quick Turn Around Forensic Engineering Inspection Services In The Denver And Evergreen Area
3. Structural Engineer’s Decision On Soil Bearing Area Used For Post Tension Slabs

Is the building structurally sound? Some structural fixes are easy but some aren't worth the effort. If the building is going to require a lot of work to make it safe to remodel then that tends to push the needle towards tearing it down.

Does the structure have historic value, is it on a historic register, in a historic district? If you answered yes, then you most likely have to look at a remodel or a serious amount of paperwork and meetings. There have been a few purchases that have fallen through for this reason.

Do you like the style of the existing house? Again, if you like the aesthetic of the house then remodeling may make sense. It might also make sense if the house has an expensive exterior that might be hard to rebuild within your budget. We did a remodel in Bonnie Brae where the exterior was all stone, brick and expensive tile roof so the exterior stayed.

Does the existing house preclude you from doing what you want to do? This is a multipart question, does the house sit on the site in a way that makes expansion difficult, does the room layout really not work, do the levels in the house not work or are the ceilings too low. Those aren't always remodel fixes and may mean starting fresh.

Do you have enough room to go out, or do you need to go up (or down) also? Adding levels to an existing house definitely adds complexity and may point towards starting fresh.

On the other hand, does the existing house allow you to get away with something that you couldn't do if you scrapped? We're currently doing a feasibility on a multi-unit building in Denver that is built to the property lines, if it were torn down it would have to be rebuilt 5-10 feet from the property lines and the site would yield less units. On a smaller scale, your existing staircase or window design may be built in a way that we couldn't build from scratch.

What are your plans for the house? Consider what your goal is, are you just doing a fix and flip or are you planning to stay for the long haul? This will have an effect on just how far you will need to go with your changes; how far do you chase that old pipe, how much do you insulate existing walls and do you really need to replace the furnace or the windows.

There is also an obvious need to look at the costs of your options and you can look at involving an experienced contractor or builder to aid in this analysis. You need to figure out just how many of the systems will need to be remodeled or replaced in order to bring the house up to current standards and codes. As architects we can give you a lot of advice but you should consider bringing on someone who works with material and labor costs daily.

There is another option to consider, if the house just doesn't meet your needs but you can't make the numbers work on tearing it down, you might look at selling and buying a lot that makes more sense.

Finally, if you are facing this dilemma or are looking at property to purchase and need some advice, please give us a call. EVstudio has experience and advice for your remodel.

Originally posted 2008-06-29 23:44:39.

No related posts.

We will need to go over your survey which I've covered here. Where do you see the house going on the site and will it work with the other constraints? We'll want to discuss what the terrain is, if there are great site features and where the views are or aren't. Some houses need to be designed to maximize the great views and some need to be designed to minimize the neighbors you don't want to see. Is your house in one of these categories or both?

Does your site work with your ideal house type? There are some sites that support walk out basements and some that don't. Some sites make sense for a ranch and others will require split levels. In cities like Denver and Boulder your site terrain will determine how tall and how many stories you can build.

We'll need to discuss access to the property especially with rural properties on difficult terrain. Is there already an access drive or does it need to be put in? Does the access dictate that the house should really be in a different location?

We'll want to discuss solar orientation and prevailing winds. This is one of the most important things that we can do to make your house both a comfortable place to live and energy efficient. Do the other site features and your house layout maximize the benefits of the sun? In snowy states, is your driveway in the sun or in the shade? Do you need to be sheltered from the wind or would the house benefit from a breeze?

We will discuss and catalog your site utilities. Are you on city power, gas, phone, cable, water, sewer? If not, what do we need to design for? In any case, more municipalities are now requiring this information for the site plan review and we'll need enough information that we can show it on the architectural site plan.

TOC Post: Introduction
Previous Post: General Project Information
Next Post: Floor Plans, Public Spaces

Originally posted 2008-07-09 10:17:49.

Related posts:

1. Designing Your House – Introduction
2. Designing Your House – Part 1
3. Mullins Residence in The Preserve at Pine Meadows

Schuler Residence in Lake George, CO

Also on the boards is the Evans Residence in Clear Creek County. This home was also designed to be a log home and is designed with a cistern, a greywater system and a composting toilet. This home will have no electricity whatsoever and will have a propane refrigerator and gas lighting. A much more rustic cabin than the Schuler's state-of-the-art home in Lake George, but certainly another approach to going off grid.

Evans Cabin in Clear Creek County

We've done two other off grid cabins in addition to these, both with various systems to qualify them under the current building codes. There are a lot of common systems and synergies that we apply to off grid homes as well as sustainable on grid homes. Most clients who elect for a home off grid are driven to do so because of the economics of bringing in electricity, however many people are now considering these systems for rural, suburban and even urban dwellings. If you are thinking about building a home off grid or are electing to integrate these kinds of systems into any building, give us a call and we can help!

Originally posted 2009-01-26 15:56:39.

No related posts.

A first question is, do you prefer to spend outdoor time in the front yard or in the back yard? How much time do you spend in each spot? Do you want to socialize with the people on the street? Where do the kids play and where do the dogs do their stuff?

How enclosed are your outdoor spaces? Are they covered by a roof or a trellis or are they open? How many sides are enclosed and are they enclosed by windows or screens? We've designed a number of houses where the rooms may act as open porches in the summer and are converted back to enclosed rooms for winter. What sort of furniture are you putting in your outdoor rooms?

Where do you want to set up stuff outside? Would you like a barbecue grill that is connected to the gas in your house? Do you have a hot tub, if you do we need to know how big it is. What are your electrical needs outside of the house? I did a house a few years ago where we put electrical outlets in all of the eaves so that Christmas lights would be easier to install. Do you have any custom requests?

What about out buildings? Do you need additional buildings on the site for your hobbies or just for storage? Is the outbuilding connected to the house by a breezeway? Are we designing the outbuilding?

That about wraps up the basic floor planning questions, next we'll discuss the style choices and interior elevations.

TOC Post: Introduction
Previous Post: Floor Plans, Accessory Spaces
Next Post: Interior Design

Originally posted 2008-07-18 13:49:55.

Related posts:

1. Designing Your House – Part 7
2. Designing Your House – Introduction
3. Designing Your House – Part 3

A big part of the private space discussion is the master suite. Do you want a main level master suite, a bedroom near the kids or one on the other side of the house? How big is the bedroom, what furniture do you anticipate and is there a sitting area? Do you want a private balcony? Would you like a fireplace? Is there a television and where is it?

How many bathroom fixtures are in your master bath? How serious a tub are you interested in, soaking, jetted, Japanese? Or do you want to skip the tub? How big is the shower, do you want it open, walk in, roll in? How much sink and countertop would you like? Is the toilet in the room or is it in its own room? We've seen two toilets, bidets and urinals. Any other special features? We also just put in a specially designed make-up counter in a custom home. This one causes a surprising amount of discussion, do you want a door to the master bathroom?

Do you want the master closet to be accessed through the master bedroom or would you prefer (as I do) to access it through the master bath? Do you want one closet or two? Maybe an island in the closet or a window. If your family only consists of the folks inhabiting the master suite, would you like to put laundry equipment in the master closet?

Describe the pieces of furniture that will go into each of the other bedrooms. How much closet space do they need? Do you want any open loft spaces arranged with the bedrooms. In my house, the space outside the kids' bedrooms and bathroom is one of the most used spaces in the house.

How are the bathrooms arranged, accessed of the hall or off the bedrooms? What about a Jack and Jill? Who will be sharing the bathroom? I advise all of our clients to make sure there is a tub in the house, even if you only take showers. Eventually someone will want to wash a kid, or a dog, and need a tub.

Accessory space design comes next.

TOC Post: Introduction
Previous Post: Floor Plans, Public Spaces
Next Post: Floor Plans, Accessory Spaces

Originally posted 2008-07-13 22:44:29.

Related posts:

1. Designing Your House – Part 5
2. Designing Your House – Part 3
3. Designing Your House – Introduction

We recently designed a house in which the homeowner is considering both Ipe wood and composite decking for the exterior decks.  Ipe is one of the strongest and most durable wood decking materials available due to its extremely dense grain.  When left untreated, Ipe wood decking can last up to 40 years.  With a deck oil finish application, it can last up to 100 years.  Composite decking, a mixture of recycled plastic and wood, is smoother than real wood and typically won’t splinter or warp.  It can also bend to make curves and patterns not possible with real wood.

Although composite decking is a much more environmentally friendly choice, it can delaminate in as little as 2 to 3 years and is not as slip-resistant as real wood.  However, composite decking does not need to be treated or stained.  The downsides of Ipe are the high initial costs, and the overall lack of sustainable qualities, although they do offer an eco-friendly option that has been responsibly cultivated and harvested.

When comparing costs, Ipe averages around the same cost per linear foot as composite decking, if not a little higher.  With Ipe, you are paying for its durability and overall look.  With composite decking you are paying for its sustainable qualities and low-maintenance.

Originally posted 2010-08-02 01:55:30.

Related posts:

1. Seismic Testing of a Mid-Rise Wood Framed Structure
2. Three Wood Framing Methods – Balloon, Platform & Advanced
3. Calculating Fire Resistance Ratings of Wood Assemblies Using the IBC

Below are some tips from our friends at Insulated Component Structures:

1. Standard panel thicknesses are 4-1/2" (r-28) & 6-1/2" (r-42).  You must use these thicknesses while designing the building or risk problems with the plans.
2. Panel skins must sit on a solid, structural surface.  They cannot hang, unsupported, outside the foundation wall.  Sips are designed with a 1-1/2” void in the bottom to fit over a 2x sill-plate.  Sips must not touch concrete that touches earth.  Use a pressure-treated sill-plate (ripped to the panel width) on concrete, and a regular sill-plate centered on it.
3. Sips are made with a 1-1/2” void at the top for acceptance of a field-installed continuous top-plate.  Top-plate joints must not be within 12” of a panel joint.
4. Raked (or gabled-end) panels and panels with beveled tops are more expensive and more difficult to produce.  Designs where the panels are rectangular are least-cost.
5. If panel heights are designed around standard osb lengths, there is less waste and labor costs for cutting.  Standard osb sizes are 8’0”, 9’0”, 10’0”, 12’0”, 16’0” and 24’1”.
6. Panel widths can be any size up to 48”.  Panels that are exactly 48” are easiest to produce and most efficient to ship and install.  This will also reduce waste.
7. One-piece corners solve several problems with thermal envelopes.  Ideally, one-piece corners should be 24” on each leg’s minor dimension.  Consequently, the major dimension would be 24” plus the panel thickness (4.5” or 6.5”).  This is true for both “inside” and “outside” corners.
8. Ideally, door and window openings should be not less than 3'-0" from the out side of a corner.
9. A door or window with a rough-opening width of 36" or less can be placed within one panel.  This is preferable to doors and windows that span two or more panels.  Ideally, windows should be minumum 12” apart.
10. Ideally, structures should be designed so that no panels are taller than 16'-0".  It is possible to make taller panels (up to 24’0”), but it is not as practical.
11. Whenever possible, headers should be placed in the rim or truss space with joist or trusses hanging from them.
12. Roof panels should have support beneath the panels, not within the panels.  Lumber or tjis in panels cause thermal-bridges.  Roof panels should have no wood embedded in them and all panel joints should be foam-to-foam.  Typically, 8’ spans for 6.5”-thick roof panels are appropriate for the front-range of Colorado.  At 8’ spans, they can handle a total load of 75 psf.
13. For least-cost, eaves should be square at the ends and let the trimming take care of making them plumb.
14. Consider sips ceilings attached to the bottom chord of roof trusses rather than a fully sips roof.  This will eliminate the extra expense of foam over the pitch and eaves.
15. Electrical boxes and conduits should be placed within the sip panels at the factory.  Remember to indicate all devices that will need conduit or boxes, i.e. Electrical outlets, switches, speakers, doorbells, smoke-detectors, telephones, internet or lan devices, alarm systems, etc.
16. Conduits can run from up, down, or side-to-side, or any combination.  Generally, the ideal situation is for the electrical wiring and connections to be within the floor system and/or in the attic.  Consequently, a sip wall panel should sit on a floor system so the conduit can run vertically down from the box in the panel to the bottom of the panel.  Wiring can then be routed through the sill plate and through the floor joists across to the next conduit. Conduits can run up to an upper-level floor system or attic.
17. Sips skins can be many materials, including osb, fiber-cement, dry-wall, aluminum, galvanized or stainless-steel, fiber-reinforced plastic laminate (frpl), t-111 siding, t&g pine, etc.  However, for structural applications, the skins must be structural.  Osb, t-111, and t&g pine tend to be structural, while the other options are not nearly as structural, if at all.

Please note that the above parameters are ideal guidelines for this manufacturer and can adjusted to meet your needs.  By following these ideal design parameters, you can reduce the cost of panels, and save manufacturing and installation time.

Originally posted 2009-10-27 02:00:28.

Related posts:

1. Top 10 Important Things to Know for SIPs
2. Reducing Holdowns Using OSB Exterior Sheathing
3. Calculating Fire Resistance Ratings of Wood Assemblies Using the IBC

Here's what Mountain and Urban properties have in common:

The largest scope in the set of residential permit drawings is the Architectural and Structural design – the core of the set of plans for the home. This includes everything about the home itself, from the initial programming, the design concepts, floor plans, elevations, sections, electrical lighting and switching layouts, to the structural engineering of the foundation plan, floor and roof framing plans and all of the necessary details for the builder to build the home. While local climate and regional location drives a multitude of design parameters, these core documents are largely the same for mountain and urban projects.

Also required these days by any jurisdiction adopting the new International  Energy Codes will be a Manual J, Manual D and a Rescheck energy model for the home's energy performance and heating system design. These documents are not typically a part of the architectural drawings as they are most often provided by the HVAC system installers or separate MEP engineers. Be that as it may, expect to see these requirements for permitting any home, rural or otherwise, and find out the cost of these services up front.

A geologic soils report in the general location of the proposed structures will also be necessary for any project in order to determine appropriate soil characteristics for the design of a foundation. Mountain properties are often in geologic zones that have few issues with soils, however pockets of unusual strata can be encountered anywhere, so at a minimum, the soils should be examined by a professional during excavation. These services need to be coordinated, and can be costly, depending on your location, so find out what the impact will be early on to eliminate unhappy surprises.

Urban Living

Most jurisdictions are now requiring stamped and sealed truss drawings prior to releasing a permit. While this practice is questionable because field changes can drive changes to shop drawings, and cause confusion during framing, the International Residential Code is clear on it's requirement for permitting. Some jurisdictions will grant a conditional permit, requiring these drawings to be submitted prior to framing inspection, which is much more reasonable. Truss drawings should be coordinated by the structural engineer and provided by the truss company as a part of the truss package, so it would be unusual to incur a separate design fee for this scope.

It is always important to have a property survey, showing the property boundaries, easements, setbacks, any improvements, and spot elevations around the site in order to determine building heights, location and orientation, and ensure positive drainage around the building. Understanding what entitlements and encumbrances on a property are crucial to understand. They are itemized on a title commitment, and should be a part of any survey. Do not take anything for granted or assume anything about the lot without documentation. Survey costs vary significantly with lot size and survey complexity, so be sure you know what your site will entail.

In addition to the above requirements,  a mountain project will also require the following additional documents prior to release of a building permit in most jurisdictions:

A more detailed topographic survey of the portions of the property will be necessary for the design. This is critical for larger lots where steep grades can be encountered. Driveways need to be designed to exacting standards, and existing topography will drive what can and cannot be done. Steeply sloping sites will also drive design of the home and any other structures as well. Other site elements include large trees, rock outcrops, wetlands areas, riparian boundaries, and any other natural features found on the site. Documenting these features not only helps to preserve them for the enjoyment of the owner, but also to enhance them and integrate them into the design. These elements do add complexity to the survey, and the lots are generally much larger, so expect a sharp increase in costs for these kinds of surveys.

Civil Engineering necessary for a driveway and/or grading permit will also likely be required. Because of larger lot sizes, driveways really become private roads and the amount of site disturbance required to get to the building site can be significant. Civil engineering documents for the driveway design, erosion control plan, and grading plans all are necessary for the proper design of the driveway, emergency access, and also help to identify potential issues. This is a scope largely unseen in urban environments, unless you're developing commercial property or tracts of land.

Mountain Property

For lots without utilities, a full Septic design will be required for the site. This will outline the septic tank and leach field based on the number of bedrooms in the home. Careful design of the septic field will ensure longevity of the system, but also protect underground water from contamination. While you will enjoy the value of not having to pay for tap fees, the design and installation of the sewer system will be no small number, so be aware of these requirements. Also note that most jurisdictions are not very keen on "alternative methods" of waste disposal. Any effort to propose things outside of the norm will require more engineering proof to the department for its acceptance.

You will also need to demonstrate proof of water for the site. Again, most rural mountain lots will not have a metro district nearby, and therefore, you will need to show that a well can legally be drilled, and also that the well can produce a minimum amount of production prior to a building permit being issued. While the amount of water necessary to support a home is a highly debatable issue, the fact remains that you will have to prove you have water before they will let you build. The well design often comes with the septic design as the two are related. However, the cost of the well and the cost of the septic installation are two different line items, and akin to their respective tap fees on urban properties.

Often taken for granted, you will also need to demonstrate that you can legally access the site. On urban lots that have been developed, this issue rarely comes up, but on mountain property, there are often parcels that result from illegal subdivisions that can orphan interior lots. Our advice: Do not buy one of these properties unless you know with certainty that the issues can be resolved and necessary easements granted. The survey for the property may need to be broad enough to demonstrate this proof of access, or the title work will need to identify the appropriate easements necessary to legally access the site.

This is not an exhaustive list, and there are many more considerations to be aware of when dealing with mountain property. If you are considering building a home in the mountains, it is best to get help selecting the right site before you even make an offer. While it is unusual to hire an architect before owning a lot, our real estate department offers these services at no additional cost. Give us a call and we can help you select the right property for the perfect home.

Originally posted 2010-05-28 00:48:48.

Related posts:

1. Navigating The Highlands at Breckenridge Design Guidelines with an Architect
2. Involving an Architect in Your Home Buying Process
3. Mountain Modern Project Moving Forward With a Site Specific Design

Modern Mountain Colorado Home

The home nestles naturally into the site and steps with the site. The excavator remarked how simple the excavation was and how perfectly the cut and fill balanced so no costs were incurred in hauling material. Expressing the structural frame was also a strong element in this design. We needed moment frames to handle the lateral loads, but didn't want the huge thermal bridge in the wall that they ultimately create. So instead, we expressed them on the surface of the wall with steel C channel and used the structural element as an architectural trim detail. In fact, all of the headers were handled in this way and the thermal envelope of the walls is significantly better. Note the square head bolts used as an additional touch...

Exposed Steel C Channel Moment Frame

Not only are the forms on this home distinctive offering a fresh interpretation of modern in an organic mountain setting, but the materials are also very rich in both texture and their very nature. Reclaimed weathered barnwood siding, rusting steel and natural stone are prominent elements, respecting the relationship between a home and its climate.

Mountain materials of stone, reclaimed barnwood and steel

The proportions of the steel siding were based on Fibonacci's golden section. We studied not only the proportions of the home, but also of the aspect ratios of the elements themselves to arrive at the sizes, then the contractor had them manufactured to our exacting specifications.

Metal Siding With Proportions of Golden Section

Attention to detail was a hallmark of this home both inside and out. We'll post the interior shots after the owners get settled in, but the exteriors received as much attention as the inside. For our canted steel I-Beam posts, we inserted a reclaimed wood timber with square head bolts.

Seamless Structural and Architectural Detailing

With everything having come together in such a harmonious way, The owners are thrilled with the outcome, as is the neighborhood, not to mention the EVstudio team. We were fortunate to have clients who were so great to work with and open minded to new ideas for their home!

Related posts:

1. Mountain Modern 3-D Model in Freewheel
2. Mountain Modern Project Moving Forward With a Site Specific Design
3. Latest Hand Rendering for Mountain Modern Project