Architecture, Engineering & Planning EVstudio | Denver & Evergreen Architect | Colorado & Central Texas | Blog » Remodel

Do I remodel or start from scratch?

Sean O'Hara — Mon, 12 Dec 2011 23:46:35 +0000

We have done quite a number of residential remodels in the last of couple years, and one of the first questions that people ask their architect is often "do you think I should remodel it or should I tear it down and start over". This is not an easy question to answer and it is very project specific, but there are a few starting points that I use.

Is the building structurally sound? Some structural fixes are easy but some aren't worth the effort. If the building is going to require a lot of work to make it safe to remodel then that tends to push the needle towards tearing it down.

Does the structure have historic value, is it on a historic register, in a historic district? If you answered yes, then you most likely have to look at a remodel or a serious amount of paperwork and meetings. There have been a few purchases that have fallen through for this reason.

Do you like the style of the existing house? Again, if you like the aesthetic of the house then remodeling may make sense. It might also make sense if the house has an expensive exterior that might be hard to rebuild within your budget. We did a remodel in Bonnie Brae where the exterior was all stone, brick and expensive tile roof so the exterior stayed.

Does the existing house preclude you from doing what you want to do? This is a multipart question, does the house sit on the site in a way that makes expansion difficult, does the room layout really not work, do the levels in the house not work or are the ceilings too low. Those aren't always remodel fixes and may mean starting fresh.

Do you have enough room to go out, or do you need to go up (or down) also? Adding levels to an existing house definitely adds complexity and may point towards starting fresh.

On the other hand, does the existing house allow you to get away with something that you couldn't do if you scrapped? We're currently doing a feasibility on a multi-unit building in Denver that is built to the property lines, if it were torn down it would have to be rebuilt 5-10 feet from the property lines and the site would yield less units. On a smaller scale, your existing staircase or window design may be built in a way that we couldn't build from scratch.

What are your plans for the house? Consider what your goal is, are you just doing a fix and flip or are you planning to stay for the long haul? This will have an effect on just how far you will need to go with your changes; how far do you chase that old pipe, how much do you insulate existing walls and do you really need to replace the furnace or the windows.

There is also an obvious need to look at the costs of your options and you can look at involving an experienced contractor or builder to aid in this analysis. You need to figure out just how many of the systems will need to be remodeled or replaced in order to bring the house up to current standards and codes. As architects we can give you a lot of advice but you should consider bringing on someone who works with material and labor costs daily.

There is another option to consider, if the house just doesn't meet your needs but you can't make the numbers work on tearing it down, you might look at selling and buying a lot that makes more sense.

Finally, if you are facing this dilemma or are looking at property to purchase and need some advice, please give us a call. EVstudio has experience and advice for your remodel.

Originally posted 2008-06-29 23:44:39.

No related posts.

Proper Bearing of I-Joist Rafters

Adam Denton — Mon, 21 Nov 2011 08:02:24 +0000

As today’s architectural design trends toward more open floor plans with vaulted ceilings there is a need for economical rafters that will span long distances while maintaining a shallow profile. In many situations pre-manufactured I-joist rafters fit that need.
As a structural engineer I have inspected many roofs framed with I-joist rafters, but very few that have not needed a correction due to the I-joist bearing. While typically not a problem when the roof is flat and the I-joists bear perpendicularly on the top plate, when the rafters are sloped proper bearing becomes an issue. The simplest way to properly bear the I-joists is to attach a full length beveled block to the top plate. As a structural designer I have not gotten a lot of positive feedback from framers when I specify this method. Beveling the end of the I-joist seems to be preferred over beveled blocking. The problem comes with the compromised stiffness of the I-joist’s web once the bottom flange is beveled.

As shown in the above detail, the web of the I-joist rafter should be reinforced with plywood to increase it’s stiffness at the bearing edge. As always, blocking should be provided between rafters as well as a mechanical clip (such as the Simpson H2.5) to counteract uplift forces.

Originally posted 2010-10-25 00:01:45.

Remodels Require a Flexible and Responsive Team

Anthony Ries — Mon, 07 Nov 2011 05:25:19 +0000

We are doing an exciting renovation in the Conifer area that has a really unique front entry. The entrance evolved out a requirement to keep snow from piling up in front of the front entry and also blocking driveway access to the garage. After a number of sketches and conversations, we settled on creating a butterfly roof. A very nice entry feature with a porch was designed in the original set of drawings but as the project progressed we continued look at how the butterfly roof at the entry would be supported. Through conversation, we found that the clients decided they wouldn't spend much time at the front porch because of their spectacular view from the back of the house to the south.

Butterfly Roof Framing with Temporary Shoring

We designed a system where the columns for this structure angled back to the home at approximately 30 degrees from vertical. Based on typical construction methods and brief investigation of this portion of the house last winter, we determined we could connect the base of the columns to the house with brackets connected to the foundation wall.

This turned out to not be the case. Upon opening up this portion of the house it was discovered that there were 6 sill plates resting on the foundation and beneath the floor framing. Additionally there were a number of gaps in these plates. The interior side of this wall is in a crawl space that has a substantial amount of spray foam insulation covering the foundation, plates, rim board and a portion of the floor joists.

Numerous Sill Plates with Visible Gaps

Upon discovery of this field condition, we promptly received a call from the builder, Doug Prickett with Bear Creek Design Group, who specializes in projects like this. Ultimately, the resolution to this challenge was very simple and quick. One of our talented structural engineers was able to quickly asses the situation and was able to rework the connection detail. In the end, we used the same custom connection plate. The posts also have the same designed angle. Our engineer did a few calculations and specified some additional reinforcing and Doug was back to work.

As part of our base contract we are always available to help resolve construction issues as they occur. This is always very useful on remodel and addition projects where owners don't necessarily want destructive investigation prior to receiving a permit and signing a contract with a builder. Because of this reality, the game can change the moment the first wall is opened.

Here is a view of the entry with the posts in place:

Framing Progress of Butterfly Roof with Angled Posts

Phase Change Materials

Anthony Ries — Mon, 24 Oct 2011 05:28:52 +0000

Anyone who lives in the Denver area is familiar with the large difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures. Designing a home with proper solar orientation and thermal mass can help protect the interior of a home from these severe swings.

In the summer thermal mass is shaded from direct sunlight so it doesn’t get hot. This draws heat out of the air and releases it at night when the temperatures cool. This can be assisted by proper nighttime ventilation. In the winter the thermal mass can be situated so that plenty of sunlight strikes it and heats it up over the course of the day. In turn the heat is released into the home at night. This approach can go a long way towards evening out heating and cooling loads, as well as reduce them overall.

A modern twist on thermal mass is the usage of phase changing materials. In buildings a phase change material can be installed which changes state from liquid to solid at a given temperature. This typically ranges from 72-78 degrees Fahrenheit. As the ambient temperatures in the room falls the material will change states again and release the heat into the room. The material has been shown to reduce energy use by up to 30% and shift peak energy loads to later in the day.

The amount of thermal mass achieved with a phase change material depends on the type of medium the material is in. A phase changing wallboard is equivalent to about 3.5 inches of concrete whereas phase changing materials packaged in compartments on a roll of plastic claim the equivalent thermal mass of 12 inches of concrete. There is also glazing solutions that contain phase changing materials.

These materials can be very useful in a home remodel, particularly if the orientation isn’t quite right, or it simply isn’t reasonable to add thermal mass. We are currently studying this material and its application further and will keep in informed on what we find.

Originally posted 2011-01-23 22:52:53.

Change of Use May Require a Structural Engineer

Sean O'Hara — Wed, 05 Oct 2011 20:57:39 +0000

When the use of a building changes from one occupancy to another, say a store to a restaurant, you certainly need an architect to help you. The architect deals with exiting, fixture counts, layout issues and provides the stamped plans that you'll need for the building department. When that change happens in a space that isn't on a slab on grade, you may also need a structural engineer.

In Chapter 16 of the International Building Code there is a table that details the floor bearing capacity for different occupancy groups. Each group has a uniform distributed load that it must meet and many have an additional requirement for concentrated loads. They vary quite a bit from one occupancy to another and often the building department will want an evaluation of the system to see if it works.

As an example a restaurant requires a 100 psf distributed load capacity. If the space was previously an office it might be designed for as little as 50 psf. Worse yet if it is old enough it may be designed for even less. Again, a structural engineer needs to be brought in to evaluate and provide a solution that matches your exact needs.

As architects and engineers we can provide all the services to meet the building department requirements.

Originally posted 2010-10-28 22:25:25.

The Abbey on Adams: Structural Design for a Historic Building Remodel

Adam Denton — Sat, 01 Oct 2011 07:47:03 +0000

EVstudio was recently awarded the contract to provide structural engineering services for the remodeling of a luxury condo unit located in a historic brick church at 14^th and Adams in Denver. This church was repurposed as two unique luxury condo units in 2000. The scope of our services is the design of a new office floor “platform” and roof replacement in the bell tower.

The Bell Tower

The original construction of the bell tower appears to be triple wythe brick covered with a newer brick veneer at the exterior. The bell tower is braced on the south by the structure of what was the original congregation area which includes several magnificent heavy timber trusses (unfortunately hidden from view inside the condos). Because of the age of the brick and mortar beds, the main challenge with this project will be the design of the connection of the new structure to the historic brick walls so that the new loads do not overstress the original building components.

Further updates will follow as the project continues.

You Want to Remove a Load Bearing Wall?

Jim Houlette — Sun, 07 Aug 2011 20:45:03 +0000

One of the most common phone calls we receive is "We want to remove a wall, we're not sure if it's load bearing. Can you help?"

We are happy to help!

The first thing that is needed is an observation. Our structural engineers can determine the structural layout, identify load bearing walls and discuss options with you and a contractor. Our goal is to help you achieve the finished look you want while maintaining the structural integrity of your home. Safety and performance are our top priorities. During the project we are always happy to explain all options you have, cost differences and any performance concerns we might have. We enjoy educating homeowners about the structure so they have an understanding about their home and why we may recommend one option over another.

Identifying load bearing walls is fairly simple. Look for interruptions or lapped joints in the floor or ceiling joists, large spans, braces in the attic and beams below the wall in question. In addition, a wall might not be load bearing but it may be needed to brace the structure from lateral forces such as wind or earthquake loads. These walls are called shear or brace walls. Only a structural engineer can determine if a wall is load bearing or is a shear wall. Don't let contractors convince you they know what they are doing. Many do, but you won't know until it's too late.

Every house is slightly different and has it's own unique situation. To remove a bearing wall you will need to support the framing above with a dropped, flush or raised beam. The dropped header is the easiest and cheapest way. However, many people like the look of a flat ceiling with no soffit. Then a flush or raised beam is needed. A flush beam would have to be used if there is living spaced above the wall to be removed. A raised beam is a great option when there is an attic space above.

Flush wood beam incorrectly used without straps as tension ties

I don't like to use a flush beam for single story houses with a rafter/ceiling joist roof system. Many people don't realize that the ceiling joists are in tension holding the exterior walls in place due to an outward force from the rafters. If the ceiling joists are cut to allow for a flush beam that tension can pull the ceiling joists away from the beam. This typically causes a large crack to form in the ceiling and even worse could lead to the exterior wall bowing out. To prevent the separation, light gauge straps are used to connect the cut ceiling joists. The image above is a flush beam supporting ceiling joists. The ceiling joists were cut to allow the flush beam but were not attached with straps. We discovered this situation when we were requested to determine the cause of a large ceiling crack in an old home.

If you are looking to remove a wall please let us know. You can contact Jim Houlette at jim@evstudio.com or call the main line.

Include an Exterior Door in Your Addition

Sean O'Hara — Fri, 29 Jul 2011 21:53:23 +0000

Last fall, my wife and I designed an addition to our home. It was a fairly straightforward addition with only a couple areas inside the house being remodeled to accommodate it. To save money and hassle we wanted to be able to live in the house during construction.

We installed plastic where the addition was going to connect and we made an important decision. We included an exterior door into the addition. It created an amenity for our new master bedroom and more importantly an access point. With that exterior door building materials and workers could go into the addition and trash could go out the addition, all without introducing contaminants or strangers into the house. This small choice made a big difference and I would encourage you to think about how this will work on your next addition.

Matching Old Paint Isn’t Easy

Sean O'Hara — Thu, 28 Jul 2011 06:05:41 +0000

I've done a couple remodeling jobs lately on my own house and a rental house that we have. In both cases I knew exactly the color and luster of the paint but it is impossible to get the colors to match when you put them up.

There are several factors at play. First off, interior paint gets darker over time. If you match the colors in the mix, they'll be lighter than what's on the wall. Second, you can have fading and wear in certain areas. When you see the wall as a whole its not noticeable, but try to repaint only a portion and it will show right up. Third, the formulas for the base colors will change, especially when a company has reduced the amount of VOC.

So the real lesson is that its hard to touch up or match new paint to old paint. Better to assume that it won't match and paint the entire wall to the edges or corners. Once you turn the corner you'll no longer perceive it.

Classification of Work and Scope in the Existing Building Code

Sean O'Hara — Fri, 08 Apr 2011 06:01:43 +0000

The International Existing Building Code is a building code that is being adopted by an increasing number of municipalities. While the International Building Code has provisions for existing buildings it offers fewer options than the IEBC. The first step in identifying the applicable code provisions is to decide the classification of the work.

The first classification is repairs. Repairs are the replacement or repair of damaged materials for the purpose of maintaining them in good condition. This work can include work on non-damaged parts if the work is part of the process of repairing the damaged parts.

Level 1 alterations are the removal, replacement or covering of existing materials and building elements with new materials and elements with the same purpose.

Level 2 alterations include reconfiguration of space, changes to doors and windows, reconfiguration of any systems and the installation of additional equipment.

Level 3 alterations apply where the area of the remodel is more than 50% of the building area.

A change of occupancy kicks in when there is a change in the occupancy of the space.

Additions have their own classification where the work is an addition.

Historic building provisions are in effect where they meet the definition. Generally that means being eligible for listing on a national, state or local registry.

Finally there is a classification for relocated buildings.

With the classification determined based on scope you can move to the particular chapter and see what specifics of the code apply.