You Want to Remove a Load Bearing Wall?
One of the most common phone calls we receive is "We want to remove a wall, we're not sure if it's load bearing. Can you help?"
We are happy to help!
The first thing that is needed is an observation. Our structural engineers can determine the structural layout, identify load bearing walls and discuss options with you and a contractor. Our goal is to help you achieve the finished look you want while maintaining the structural integrity of your home. Safety and performance are our top priorities. During the project we are always happy to explain all options you have, cost differences and any performance concerns we might have. We enjoy educating homeowners about the structure so they have an understanding about their home and why we may recommend one option over another.
Identifying load bearing walls is fairly simple. Look for interruptions or lapped joints in the floor or ceiling joists, large spans, braces in the attic and beams below the wall in question. In addition, a wall might not be load bearing but it may be needed to brace the structure from lateral forces such as wind or earthquake loads. These walls are called shear or brace walls. Only a structural engineer can determine if a wall is load bearing or is a shear wall. Don't let contractors convince you they know what they are doing. Many do, but you won't know until it's too late.
Every house is slightly different and has it's own unique situation. To remove a bearing wall you will need to support the framing above with a dropped, flush or raised beam. The dropped header is the easiest and cheapest way. However, many people like the look of a flat ceiling with no soffit. Then a flush or raised beam is needed. A flush beam would have to be used if there is living spaced above the wall to be removed. A raised beam is a great option when there is an attic space above.
Flush wood beam incorrectly used without straps as tension ties
I don't like to use a flush beam for single story houses with a rafter/ceiling joist roof system. Many people don't realize that the ceiling joists are in tension holding the exterior walls in place due to an outward force from the rafters. If the ceiling joists are cut to allow for a flush beam that tension can pull the ceiling joists away from the beam. This typically causes a large crack to form in the ceiling and even worse could lead to the exterior wall bowing out. To prevent the separation, light gauge straps are used to connect the cut ceiling joists. The image above is a flush beam supporting ceiling joists. The ceiling joists were cut to allow the flush beam but were not attached with straps. We discovered this situation when we were requested to determine the cause of a large ceiling crack in an old home.
If you are looking to remove a wall please let us know. You can contact Jim Houlette at jim@evstudio.com or call the main line.
Originally posted 2011-08-07 14:45:03.
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What do you charge to come out and look at a wall to determine if it is load-bearing and if it can be safely removed? I have about a ten foot span between the kitchen adn living room underneath a second floor which is open to the living room below.
Hi Mike,
We bill hourly for our services to observe and provide recommendations such as removing a bearing wall. Our current hourly rate for a licensed engineer is $120/hr. For houses located around our Evergreen or Denver office it typically takes about 3 to 4 hours to observe the structure, write a report and draft any plans and details needed.
Every client has a unique situation and the time needed can vary. I'd be happy to discuss this in more detail with you. My direct number is 720-279-7367
Thank you,
Jim
Not sure the trick here. In our case we have a basement. Is there are reason we can't just follow the steel beam in the basement up to the walls that are on top and determine that that is the load bearing wall. It is just common sense right? Please correct me. What I mean is a load bearing wall is just that, bears a load. If you look for something (beam, wood, steel) that can support a large, heavy load then it makes sense the walls above it are load bearing.
Thanks in advance.
George
P.S. Not meant to demeanor your role. I assume there are other factors, such as refinished basements were the beams are not exposed. Thus the question above. Thanks.
Hi George,
A fair question and something I'm asked all the time.
First, many building departments require a permit to make modifications to a dwelling, including removing a wall, bearing or not. In the Denver area you would be required to provide a stamped document (letter or plans) in order to obtain a permit.
If your building department doesn't require a permit or engineering documents then I guess you are free to make your choices. However, I've seen many remodels fall apart because homeowners assume a wall is non-load bearing and then found out the hard way it was.
Another other warning is performance of the structure. Even if a wall doesn't support a "heavy" load it may be supporting the ceiling. Once removed the ceiling may deflect (sag) and create drywall cracks.
The knowledge of construction varies with homeowners. Therefore, I always recommend having a structural engineer involved with the project. Structural engineers have life safety in mind in addition to performance, construction methods and other factors that may help save you money. I feel very comfortable saying I have saved homeowners, builders, framers, etc more money than my fees. It's easy to design and throw extra material at the problem, but it takes a bit more to think outside the box and help with proper solutions. The few hundred you will spend on an engineer may save you an easy thousand or more to prevent things from going wrong. It's just not worth the risk to guess based on all the structural failures that I'm asked to go repair.
Lastly, your wall may not be load bearing, but could you determine if it's a wall needed for lateral resistance of the house from wind or seismic loads?
If it is a load bearing wall do you know how it could still be removed or at least an opening added?
Do you know some easy tricks on how to still provide support of the framing to prevent cosmetic damage when a non-loading bearing wall is removed?
On older houses, many interior walls are load bearing to simply support the ceiling joists and has nothing more below the wall than a floor joist. But if that wall was removed your ceiling may fall in.
No insult taken. But I hope I have convinced you to speak to a structural engineer. Hopefully, EVstudio if you are in the Denver area.